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Do's and Don'ts of Puppy Basics and Supplies, Training websites

Great place for collars for your pups and adult labs, get the smallest width you can:

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EXERCISE

 

Most dogs benefit from exercise but different dogs have different exercise needs. 

 

PUPPIES: Dogs under 12 months of age need only moderate exercise. 

Mostly leash walking, swimming and lots of training. 

After that you can provide strengthening exercises, but do not add endurance until the dog is fully

mature (18-24 months ).

Never hike with growing puppy or let him jump off any place over a foot high.

NO JOGGING with your puppy, just brisk walks and slow walks.                                               

 

OLDER DOGS: As your dog gets older, it will tire more easily continue to exercise your dog daily but reduce the length and intensity of the workouts!

 

DOGS WITH ARTHRITIS: Provide regular exercise of moderate intensity. Stop at first signs of fatigue

(panting, grimacing, or toe scuffing.)

If dog shows lameness after exercise, contact your vet.

 

OBESE DOGS: Always consult a veterinarian before beginning a conditioning program for an overweight dog because overweight dogs are prone to problems.   

They should not do anything that requires quick turns or jumping until they have slimmed down.

 

CRATING-AFFIRMATIVE ACTIONS

Your job is to teach your dog that the crate is a great place to be. No matter what your dog’s age, make sure every interaction it has with the crate is pleasant. In fact, if you set up the crate several days before you get your dog, the crate will take on your homes scent, and your dog will just see it as another interesting piece of furniture.

Stay nearby while your dog is getting acclimated to his crate. Once your dog is comfortable enough in the crate to tolerate a closed door, leave the room (and eventually your home} for longer periods of time.

By using canine surveillance systems, such as audio or videotape, you can find out whether your dog shows signs of severe agitation when left alone in the crate.Even though your dog loves his crate he may whine

a bit when left alone for the first time Always wait until your dog is calm and quiet before open the door, if possible.  If you uncrate a pup every time it whines it learns freedom is only a whine away.                       

Acclimate your dog to its crate while you are home so your pet doesn’t associate the crate with being alone. When your dog is fully crate-comfy to be left alone for several hours, crate it for 5-10 minutes before leaving

and 5-10 minutes after returning home before you let him out. Avoid emotional departures, which incite nervousness in dogs. 

Take your dog out to do his business and then celebrate your reunion by doing something fun together.

 

OPEN DOOR POLICY Leave the crate door open until your dog willingly enters and exits the crate on his own.

 

ACTIVITY ALLEY:   Hide food treats in a T-shirt with your smell on it in the crate.Your dog will associate the crate with stimulation.

Hide-and-seek activities and security of your alpha dog scent.

 

DOGGIE DINNER feed your dog in its crate so it identifies the den with the ultimate can eating!

 

SNUGGLE SPACE: Equip the crate with a warm, soft pad or blanket/towel.

 

PLAY PLACE: Praise, play with and pet your dog when he is in his crate.

 

Snooze city is what the crate is for, lots of naps with safe chew toys.

CRATING DO’S AND DON’TS

 

NEVER use a crate as punishment-either deliberately or unintentionally.  

For example, if you crate your dog only when you leave, the dog connects the crate with a negative consequence-your departure-and begins to view the crate as punitive.

Don’t put the crate in a high traffic or noisy area

 

DON’T overdo crating. While it’s advisable to crate your dog for short periods when you are home, don use it as a substitute for interacting with your dog.

 

DON’T leave your dogs’ collar on when you crate him. 

This will avoid an accidental injury.

 

DONT force a CRATE on your dog if it flips at out at the sight of one.

Some dogs simply won’t tolerate crating but they should still have a place to call their own.

 

SUPPLIES

 

Leash size is 6 ‘leather leash

12- 18 inch adjustable nylon collar,

Site to get collars for your pups: http://www.dogsupplies.com/products/Black-Nylon-Soft-Martingale-Training-Dog-Collar.html

 

2 large crates, a wire one and a plastic one.

Plastic one for your bedroom and wire one for the family room.Large sizes 42” x 30” x24’

Lots of gumabones, nylabones, rope toys, stuff animals, fleece bed, kong toys, hard rubber balls, tennis balls,

rawhide rolls to chew on, I like the 10 inch rolls, and any other toys that you find appropriate.

 

I also recommend you buy and read the book The Art of Raising a Puppy by The Monks of New Skete.

 

Most of all have a lot of fun and remember how fast they are going to grow this first year!!

 

Any questions call Judie or Larry @ 603 895 4693…

 

Important Pointers for New Puppy

Owners


Do's and Don'ts
Puppyhood is the most important and critical time for your

dog. What you do and don’t do right now will affect your dog's behavior forever.

Socialization
A properly socialized dog is well adjusted and makes

a good companion. It is neither frightened by nor

aggressive towards anyone or anything it would normally meet in day to day living. An unsocialized dog is untrustworthy and an unwanted liability. They often become fear-biters. They are difficult to train and are generally unpleasant to be around.

Unsocialized dogs cannot adapt to new situations and a simple routine visit to the vet is a nightmare not only for the dog itself, but for everyone involved.

Don't let this happen to you and your dog. Start socializing your new puppy NOW!

The Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine

agrees that the socialization period lasts up to about 12 weeks (3 months) of age.

However, at 12 weeks, the puppy must continue socialization to refine its social skills.

Socialization most easily occurs before the puppy is 3 months old. Any later than that and it becomes an

excruciatingly difficult and time-consuming process that very few owners have the time, energy, money or patience to cope with.

DO
Make sure that each of the following events are pleasant and non-threatening.

If your puppy's first experience with something is painful and frightening, you will be defeating your purpose. In fact, you will be creating a phobia that will often last a lifetime. It's better to go too slow and assure your puppy is not frightened or injured than to rush and force your pup to meet new things and people.


-Invite friends over to meet your pup. Include men, women, youngsters, oldsters, different ethnic origins, etc.
-Invite friendly, healthy, vaccinated dogs, puppies and even cats to your home to meet and play with your new puppy. Take your puppy to the homes of these pets. This usually is preferable with dog-friendly cats.
-Carry your pup to shopping centers, parks, school

playgrounds, etc; places where there are crowds of people and plenty of activity.
-Take your puppy for short, frequent rides in the car. Stop the car and let your puppy watch the world go by through the window.
-Introduce your puppy to umbrellas, bags, boxes, the vacuum cleaner, etc. Encourage your puppy to explore and investigate his environment.
-Get your puppy accustomed to seeing different and unfamiliar objects by creating your own. Set a chair upside down. Lay the trash can (empty) on its side, set up the ironing board right-side up one day and upside down the next day.
-Introduce your puppy to new and various sounds.

Loud, obnoxious sounds should be introduced from a distance and gradually brought closer.
-Accustom your puppy to being brushed, bathed, inspected, having its nails clipped, teeth and ears cleaned and all the routines of grooming and physical examination.
-Introduce your puppy to stairs, his own collar and leash. Introduce anything and everything you want your puppy to be comfortable with and around.

DON'T Visit any pet stores or places where strange dogs are before you come and visit your pup here....


-Do not put your puppy on the ground where unknown animals have access. This is where your puppy can pick up diseases. Wait until your puppy's shots are completed.

-Do not let your pup socialize with dogs that you don't know, that may not be vaccinated or who appear sick.
-Do not reward fearful behavior. In a well meaning attempt to sooth, encourage or calm the puppy when it appears frightened, we often unintentionally reward the behavior.

It's normal for the puppy to show some signs of apprehension when confronting anything new and different.
-Do not allow the experience to be harmful, painful or excessively frightening. This can cause lifetime phobias in your dog.
-Do not force or rush your puppy. Let your puppy take things at his own pace. Your job is to provide the opportunity.
-Do not do too much at one time. Young puppies need a lot of sleep and tire quickly. It is much more productive to have frequent and very brief exposures than occasional prolonged exposures.
-DO NOT WAIT!! Every day that goes by is an opportunity of a lifetime that is lost forever. You can never get these days back.

If socialization does not happen now, it never will.

Below are some great sites to help you with

Training, etc.....

These are very informative websites on responsible

pet ownership from the AKC, heath, training,

humane societies and vaccinations information:

 

http://www.dogsadversereactions.com/

http://www.akc.org/public_education/responsible_dog_owner.cfm

http://www.critteradvocacy.org/

http://www.srdogs.com/Pages/rimadylfr.html

http://www.perfectpaws.com/whytr.html

http://www.homevet.com/petcare/index.html

http://dog-breeds.net/Housebreaking.htm

http://www.hsus.org/

http://www.PetPeoplesPlace.com

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